ADVANCED TECHNIQUES – Composing Photos
NOTE: You can see LARGER VIEWS of any of the photos on this site by clicking on the photo.
For something that could be moving, like a person or a locomotive, leave a little room in front of it so it looks like the subject is moving into the photo, rather than out of it.
In the photo above the engine is almost out of the scene - it appears to be leaving, making the photo less interesting.
In this same scene the engine still has some place to go, making the scene appear like something is happening - the train is moving through.
Depth of Focus
The size of the lens opening determines how much a scene is in focus. Lens openings are measured in "f stops". Smaller numbers like f/2.8 are LARGER openings. Big numbers such as f/22 are SMALLER openings.
For our use in model photography, the smaller openings will give us the most depth of focus (also known as depth of field). See examples below, taken with a Canon Rebel XT:
This photo was taken at f/4.5 , with the lens focused on the figure. Notice the sharpness is very shallow, not all of the sign is in focus and the background is totally blurry. (This can be an effective tool to isolate a foreground subject. A lack of a depth of focus isn't always bad.)
This photo was taken at f/8 . A little more is now in focus, but the sign is still not all sharp.
This photo was taken at f/14. Still more is now in focus the sign is better, and the background is more distinct.
This photo was taken at f/22. A good part of the sawmill scene is now in focus, the background is still soft but this does not detract from the overall effect.
NOTE: Most "point and shoot" digital cameras - those whose lenses are not removable - will only be able to close their lenses down to around f/8. This still gives a decent depth of focus, but it is best to shoot some trial photos first to gauge your camera's capabilities.
You will always get the most depth of focus with the camera lens set at the widest setting. As you zoom out, depth of focus decreases. So for the best depth of focus, shoot at the wide angle setting on your lens.
To be able to achieve the smaller f stops such as f/11, f/16, and f/22, a camera with removable lenses is required - the DSLR -Digital Single Lens Reflex type. I personally now use a Canon Digital Rebel XSi/450 DSLR.
More on Depth of Focus
This photo was taken with a point and shoot digital set for close up mode and on automatic, showing the effect of depth of focus. The HO Climax steam engine under 6" (15 cm) long from coupler to coupler.
Focus extends from about the front pilot to the cab. Everything beyond that is out of focus. Not the greatest for showing the details of the engine.
The same engine taken with the same camera and settings, but a side view to be able to show all of the engine. The forground and background are out of focus, but do not matter in this scene.
This scene was again taken with the same camera as the above photos, The truck and sign painter are in focus, with the far edge of the billboard is out of focus but it is acceptable. The out of focus background is a good thing in this shot, as it does not detract from the main subject. Depth of focus can be useful in such occasions.
Seamless Backdrops
If you have a need to pose one of your models without any distracting background, such as in a "how to" article, it is relatively easy to do:
Here's one way I do it - place a piece of poster cardboard on a table, curved up towards the back. Weights behind the reflectors holds it in place. Lighting is by a fluorescent desk lamp with built in magnifying lens. The circular lamp is especially suited for this purpose, as it provides and overall soft light. When actually shooting, the lamp would be much closer to the model.
Here are model diesels photographed using this setup. The shadows are lightened with reflectors. The one on the left is aluminum foil glued to a cardboard A-frame, the other is a piece of white cardboard. (#1803 is a kitbashed RSC-24, one of three such engines used by CN. Essentially an RS-23 switcher on a longer chassis, with s stubby short hood added, and six-wheel trucks from traded in locos. Used on branch lines with weight restrictions. Model was started by friend Paul Bustard who lost interest in the project and i completed it. The model was in an article in RMC many years ago. It is not powered.)
You can use colored backgrounds or white, for different effects. The camera is on a tripod, and the white balance is set for the fluorescent lighting.
A SUGGESTION - When you set up a scene to photograph, be sure to check and see if all of the wheels of the rolling stock are on the rails. It is very easy to set an engine on the tracks and not notice that all of the wheels are on the track! Unless your intention is to show a derailment, do a quick visual check before shooting. The voice of experience talking here!